Running and a Giant Spider

Louise Bourgeois Spider

Running in cities can be frustrating. Often there are too many roads to cross, too many pedestrians to dodge. Sometimes I have resorted to running around car parks. Sometimes, as in Mexico and Bulgaria, there have been so many potholes that I've been forced to return to the treadmill in the hotel gym. I hadn't expected Bilbao to be an exception. How wrong I was. I stayed in two hotels in the capital of Spain's Basque country - one on either side of the River Nervion, once a nightmare of pollution, now a healthy artery. Both afforded quick access to running and cycling routes along its banks. From the NH Hotel I crossed the broad Gran Via Don Diego Lopez de Haro in the heat of a summer evening to an uninterrupted route along the south bank.

Guggenheim Museum

First a pleasant park with a boating lake, ornamental trees, boating lake and broad avenues. then the river promenade, east as far as Frank Gehry's stunning and much photographed Guggenheim Museum, symbol of the city's regeneration since the days when the river was lined with heavy industry and a major draw for tourists. Unsurprisingly there are plenty of other runners on this traffic free route. I turn back beneath the legs of Louise Bourgeois' giant spider which may be admired without paying the museum's admission fee. It was the perfect appetite sharpened before an evening in view grazing on those delicious Basque tapas known as pintxos.

On the other side of the river I stayed at the Barcelo Bilbao Nervion. The path for walkers and cyclists is a bit closer to the road, the busy Paseo Campo Valentin, but as part of an interesting circuit I swung left outside the main door and headed towards the City Hall and the old town, crossing first the Ayuntmiento bridge and re-crossing the river on Santiago Calatrava's elegant Zubizuri - Basque for white bridge - which is reserved for pedestrians and cyclists. Three to four miles is about my maximum these days but you could easily run five miles without getting balked by traffic or slaloming between shoppers - while still being able to people watch as you go.

It's almost always worth fishing out the running gear for an early feel of an unfamiliar destination. Bilbao makes it easy.

Calatrava bridge